Before you see it
- Run the VIN for recalls (free, nhtsa.gov/recalls) and get a history report.
- Ask the seller: why selling, how long owned, title in their name and clear, accidents, records, anything not working.
- Decide your walk-away conditions in advance.
What the independent inspection should cover
- Full-system scan for current and stored codes, and readiness monitors (a freshly cleared light leaves them "not ready").
- Leaks from below: oil, coolant, transmission, power steering.
- Brake pad thickness and rotor condition at all four wheels.
- Tire tread depth and date codes, including the spare.
- Suspension and steering play: ball joints, tie rods, bushings, struts.
- Frame and underbody: corrosion, bent or repaired structure, fresh undercoating hiding something.
- Body: paint depth, panel gaps, overspray — unreported collision repair.
- Cold start observed: noises, smoke, lights.
- Test drive at city and highway speed: shifting, braking, vibration, pulling.
- Every switch, window, light, A/C and heat.
- Fluid condition and battery/charging test.
- Model-specific watch items — our used-car tool adds documented patterns for the exact model.
If the seller refuses an inspection
That is the clearest warning in a used-car purchase. A seller confident in the car has no reason to refuse. Be prepared to walk.
What to say
Say this
I'm interested, and before I commit I'd like to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic of my choosing, at my expense. When could we arrange that?
Based on FTC guidance for buying a used car and general inspection practice.